The fortress on Suomenlinna Island It\'s a good question about the capital city to the country which Monty Python famously satirised as being \"a poor second to Belgium\" and, according to German playwright Bertold Brecht, inhabited by a people who could be \"silent in two languages\". Helsinki certainly comes in under the radar but it\'s a city of extreme contrasts, ranging from the stoicism required to survive midwinter\'s extreme cold and 20 hours of darkness each day to the magical quality of life during the seemingly endless days of midsummer. And the Finns are often like their capital: get past the icy exterior and you will find a generous and fun-loving people.
The most comfortable bed in town can be found at the design-led Hotel Glo (www.hotelglo.fi; 00 358 10 3444 400; with double rooms from €129 [Dh640]), which features Unikulma beds - a high-end Finnish-made brand - as standard. The hotel also offers a Glo Sleep menu, including face masks, special pillows, duvets and a choice of linen. Other boutique hotels to consider are the well-positioned Hotel Fabian (www.hotelfabian.fi; 00 358 9 6128 2000; double rooms from €120 [Dh596]), a townhouse that received a certificate of excellence from Tripadvisor this year.
There\'s also the Hotel Haven (www.hotelhaven.fi; 00 358 9 681 930; double rooms from €139 [Dh690]), a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World chain.
Undoubtedly, the Hotel Kämp (www.hotelkamp.com; 00 358 9 576 111, king size doubles from €229 [Dh1,136]) is Helsinki\'s best. If you can afford to upgrade, consider the Mannerheim suite with its magnificent marble bathroom.
At the other end of the scale, the hostel on Suomenlinna (www.snk.fi; 00 358 9 684 7471; single beds, including bed linen, from €22 [Dh109]), Helsinki\'s one-time sea fortress, is a treat. The last boat to there leaves the main ferry port at 2am, and in winter the journey through the ice floes on the gutsy little boat is an experience, to say the least.
The heart of Helsinki is its harbourside market square with its profusion of fresh fish, vegetables, flowers and tourist stalls in summer. In winter, there are a few hardy, heated stalls offering coffee, company and local doughnuts. The reindeer kebabs in the covered market are a great introduction to Finnish stall food.
From there you can walk up the Esplanade with its central strip of park, summer bands and upmarket shopping to Mannerheimintie, Helsinki\'s main street. If you would prefer to keep to the sea, you can walk past the covered market and the main ferry terminal to Kaivopuisto, one of the oldest parks in the city. It is the definitive sledding destination in winter. On May Day, students gather in large numbers to celebrate Vappu, the spring bonfire festival that\'s also known as Walpurgis Night.
If walking is not your thing, take the 3T tram that circumnavigates the key areas of the city.
Finns may well be a reticent people, but one place where there is no room to be bashful is the sauna. The central aspect to Finnish daily life, there are more than two million saunas in the country for a population of just over five million.
The last wood-fired public sauna in Helsinki is a gritty experience. Kotiharjun Sauna is in the old working class district of Kallio and has separate male and female saunas, washing facilities with no frills, and massage.
If you want a more upmarket experience, the swimming hall in Yrjönkatu behind the Forum shopping mall on Mannerheimintie is a beautifully restored Art Deco building where, for €11 (Dh54), you get a curtained cubicle on the balconied first floor above the pool, refreshment service and sauna.
Ateljee Finne is one of the most romantic restaurants in town and does wonderful things with Finnish produce at 14 Arkadiankatu. The menu is short and the tastes crisp. Think spicy salmon-head soup with crème fraiche or marinated Baltic herring with mushrooms to start, followed by fried liver.